Building astra f rallycar part WANTED!!!

[196 Aled J]

Hi there people,

I've just bought an astra f 1993 model which im going to build into a rallycar and require some essential parts,here are a brief list of parts that i need.

1600 16v early ecotec engine
F20 manual gearbox(this must be in good condition as i need synchro hubs and selectors as a donor for a quaife stright cut gear kit)
disced rear axle/beam(these would be fitted to astra,vectra and possibly calibra?)
passenger side front wing
also looking for twin webber 45 carbs and manifold to fit the engine above.

idealy i would like to source these parts in the south island as i am a tight arse welshman and dont want to pay for freight from the north but if it cant be sourced down here i will be willing to freight from further away.
looking forward to your replies

Thanks

Aled.

[127 Gordo]

Hi Alex, nice to see you're putting the emphasis on handling rather than power - I assume that's the reason for the smaller engine?
The 1600 is available in slightly different configurations, you want the earlier version, if possible, for the better heads.
Quaife also do SCCR dog or syncro boxes for other F series gearboxes - a possible option, and they'll take the power/torque perfectly well.
If you can afford the higher up-front cost, I'd suggest you go for throttle bodies (build your own or bought) - much easier to set up correctly, a little more power and better lower rpm torque and drivability - may even be cheaper in the long run due to less expense with setting up.
Reducing engine inertia - fitting a light flywheel, etc, will be a good move, especially as rpm will be fluctuatiing a lot in the lower gears.
Don't take shortcuts witht he bottom end - cheaper in the long run to build it once, to take the rpm, than have to rebuild it again later.

If you haven't already done so, some of these may be of use.
http://www.sbdev.co.uk/History_files/Hi ... Expert.htm - http://www.sbdev.co.uk/Parts%201_6L%20Catalogue.htm
There are many other suppliers, but I've found them to be very helpfull and often have had parts less than a week from ordering them.
http://www.migweb.co.uk/
and there are a bunch of Astra, etc, clubs in the UK that will be glad to advise you.

Most of us are using the C20XE, but the C16XE (or variants thereof) can give some impressive power for not too much money.

[196 Aled J]

Im wanting to down size to a 1600 just to put me in a more competitve class,the C16XE is this the early 16v ecotec enigne???are they easy to find here in nz?????i am waiting for engine specs to come from a friend in wales who runs these engines in his rallycar,his engine builder is able to get 197bhp on twin carbs and is about to experiment with injection to see how much more he can get.
you are correct in saying quaife do sccr kits for other opel gearboxes but i've been advised to use the F20 box as it is stronger and will be able to take a more pain than an F13 or F15 also with my car was originally fitted with F16 so it is has the bigger drive shafts,cv joints and hubs which again will take more pain and hopefully be able to stand the power im hoping to put through it.
suspension is already sorted im going to run it the same as i did with all my other cars,bilstein inserts and convert the front struts to 2 1/4 inch coilovers and adjustable shocks on the rear.
im hoping to source most of what i need here in nz but if that doesnt work my contacts back home will send them out here for me.

[127 Gordo]

There are also X16XE, etc, variants - I've seen some of the small Barinas (Corsas) in NZ with the 16V 1600 engine, but not sure exactly which version they are.
For a rally car, I'd tend to go to a plate type diff', rather than a torsen type, like the Quaife, as they'll maintain drive better over rough ground where either drive wheel may be off the ground.
Double check the bellhousing is the same for the 'small' and 'big' engine, I'm sure they are but...
Personally, it'd be flywheel, TBs, exhaust, then rods and pistons (higher compression and pockets for decent cams) for more safe rpm, then head and cam's. That would take you from around 150-160 to 230-240hp - if you've the budget...
Depending how serious you are, I'd look at a dog box, rather than synchro, with a 5.18 as that seems to be lowest - but it's an extra couple of grand and will need maintainance.

Sourcing an enbgine, however, may be a problem as there doesn't seem to be a lot of them and finding one when you need it may be a problem

[196 Aled J]

yes the F20 which is for the big block engine will fit the small block engines i've already found that out from my contacts in uk,dog box would be ideal but i think a synchro will do the same job for me although i have been offered a good second hand dog box from the uk,yes it will be having a plate type diff as this is what i had fitted to one of my cars back home my gearbox builder(who was an ex-employee of gatrac)said the quaife atb type diff are s**t .a 5.18 final drive???????are you sure?????that'll be too low in my opinion i had 4.5 in my last gearbox and that ran out of steam at 160km/h.
240bhp would be nice but i would settle with around 200 or just under
thanks for the links you gave me in your 1st reply post i have had a quick browse through the sites and found some useful info.

[127 Gordo]

Diff ratio will depend on the rpm you can use (steel rods?), the tyre size,top gear ratio (direct or OD?) and final diff ratio.
Sorry, I was thinking of the final build that would be pulling the rpm - a mate used to have a Starlet with a 5.3 and with a direct top, 165/80-13 tyres it had a top speed of around 210kph at 9500rpm (another mate he sold the car to was pulling 10krpm... at Puke'). Actually, pretty much all the guys were running 5.3s, even with over 250hp. Personally, I'd run a taller diff so I could run the higher speed when needed and use a lower gear when unable to.

With a 195/60 14 tyre, 1.040 top and 5.18 diff, at 7500RPM you're looking at around 155kph so, with a stock bottom end, restricting your rpm, you are right, it will probably be too low for you if the roads are open - especially if your rpm is even more restricted. A taller top gear would help, the rpm drop will be quite large, though.
A 4.5 will be around 190kph at 7k5 rpm - if the car will pull that, and it should, if the bottom end is up to it, on longer straights.
If you've a start on a grippy surface, like semi-slicks on tarmac, you may find it a bit difficult to get a clean start without bogging down, though.

There's a calculator on the Quaife site, which I didn't use 'cause it looked complicated, so I may be a bit out.

[edit] Used it, quite nice and easy to use - if you've the right info' to input.

[196 Aled J]

Ye that all helpfull advice Gordo thanks,my mate told me to use the 4.8 so we'll see ill make a decision nearer the time,back to my original post im looking to source an engine C16XE,F20 gearbox,disced ream axle through this thread so if anybody out there know where i will be able to get them please let me know.
i will start a thread in the technical section when im ready for advice on what mods i should do to the engine.

[175 Sudheer R]

Hi,quick hint f18/16 drive shafts fit f20 gearbox.might be somthing to look at as the f16/f18 are easy to find in vectras.When i crashed my astra,i replaced it with f16 drive shaft.Im sure it only the final drives that are different.